SMART first learned of a potential ban on used clothing imports in early 2015, when East African Community (EAC) Heads of State — representing Burundi, Rwanda, Uganda, Tanzania, and Kenya — announced plans to prohibit imports of used clothing and shoes, claiming these goods hindered domestic textile industry growth.
SMART immediately engaged senior U.S. officials at the Department of Commerce and the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative (USTR), providing data and industry insight to demonstrate the severe economic, environmental, and humanitarian consequences of such a ban. In much of East Africa, secondhand clothing is not just a matter of consumer choice — it is the primary source of quality apparel for a significant portion of the population. Removing this supply would put decent clothing beyond the reach of millions, driving people toward lower-quality, less durable alternatives and leaving many without access to adequate apparel. The trade also sustains extensive formal and informal employment networks — from port workers and customs agents to market vendors, tailors, and repair businesses — meaning a ban would destroy livelihoods and devastate local economies.
Despite these concerns, the EAC moved forward in 2016 with tariff increases so steep they amounted to a de facto ban, including Rwanda’s increase of more than 1,100%. Recognizing the clear conflict between the ban and eligibility requirements under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) — which requires beneficiary countries to make continual progress toward eliminating barriers to U.S. trade — SMART petitioned the U.S. government for an out-of-cycle review to suspend AGOA benefits for noncompliant EAC countries. USTR accepted the petition, held a public hearing in July 2017, and began formal consultations.
Ultimately, U.S. pressure worked: Uganda, Tanzania, and Kenya agreed to reverse the ban in order to maintain their AGOA benefits. Rwanda, however, refused to comply, and as a result, its AGOA duty-free access for apparel was suspended in 2018. This outcome underscored the effectiveness of targeted trade pressure and SMART’s advocacy in protecting legitimate, rules-based trade in secondhand textiles — and in defending the affordable clothing access and jobs that millions of people depend on.
SMART continues to monitor developments in the region and remains ready to act when trade restrictions threaten the global reuse and recycling industry.
